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A581-1020-8m-L 

OFFICE OF STATE FORESTER 

UNDER CONTROL OF 

AGRICULTURAL AND MECHANICAL COLLEGE OF TEXAS 

W. B. BIZZELL. President 
E. O. SIECKE, State Forester 



TREE PLANTING 

IN 

TEXAS TOWNS AND CITIES 

BY 
LENTHALL WYMAN 

Assistant State Forester 




BULLETIN II 



OFFICE OF STATE FORESTER 

COLLEGE STATION. TEXAS 



Monoirra#lL 



I LiQRARY OF CONGRESS 

JAN111921 

i 'DOCUMENTS DiVl 



SION 



. / 



1 



SQ4S6 



SHADE TREES IN TEXAS TOWNS AND CITIES 



/\ 



INTRODUCTION 

Convenience, comfort, and attractiveness are three qualities which a 
home seeker requires before he purchases his residence; The same 
qualities are desired by the community in its home — the city. Many 
cities are making strenuous efforts to attract new enterprises and to 
get new citizens. They are improving their conveniences by paving 
streets, extending street lights, water systems, and sewerage. They 
are endeavoring to make their municipality more comfortable by water- 
ing streets, securing public benefits such as car lines and in many other 
ways. Most towns and cities are trying to instill a sense of civic 
pride in their residents through the efforts of Women's Clubs and 
Chambers of Commerce. The aim is to make the city more beautiful, 
to attract visitors and influence them to take up residence in the com- 
munity. 

In no other way can the comfort and attractiveness of a town be 
secured so cheaply, easily, and satisfactorily as by the extensive plant- 
ing of shade trees and shrubs. This is a form of city improvement 
which increases in value from the moment it is undertaken and con- 
tinues to increase in value for many years, whereas sidewalks, electric 
lights, and drinking fountains begin to deteriorate as soon as they are 
installed. 

Trees are especially needed in cities to purify the air and to amelio- 
rate the hot summer clays. They are a valuable asset to a man's prop- 
erty as is recognized by real estate men when they are boosting a new 
city addition. The first thing done in such cases is to lay off streets 
and put attractive sign posts on the corners, next trees are put out 
and if the promoters are ambitious perhaps an impressive gateway will 
be built to attract the eyes of prospective buyers. The street signs 
and gateway are advertisement, but the trees represent real value. 
They are planted because in no other way could the real estate man 
enhance the value of the property so much with so small an outlay. 

There is great need for more trees in every Texas community and in 
the hope that a planting movement will get under way with fresh 
impetus this bulletin is issued to serve as a guide for city planters. 
During the past fifteen to twenty years a great many species of trees 
have been planted in West Texas and the Panhandle. Although many 
of these were failures still many others proved to be suited to the soil 
and climate of the region. In order to get the benefit of the results 
of these plantings a six weeks' trip was made through the northwestern 
part of the State. The information obtained on the trip has been largely 
used in the preparation of tiiis bulletin. 

The Division of Forestry of the Texas Experiment Station is con- 
ducting tests on eleven sub-stations in various sections of the State for 
the purpose of introducing desirable new shade trees. A number of 
new species are being tried out and demonstrative planting work is 
being conducted, xllthough the experiments have been in progress for 




Excellent tree planting on the side parking of a street in Temple, Texas. The ground around 
the roots has been spaded up. 




Center parking planting, Pearl slreel. Wichita Falls, Texas. The value of shade trees has 

been appreciated. These six inch hackberries will soon make this an 

attractive location for new residences. 



•only four years yet several new species show promise of 1km ng adapted 
for planting work in the plains region. From time to time new trees 
are sure to be added to the list of those recommended in this bulletin 
as a result of the Experiment Station work as soon as the tests have 
been carried on for a long enough period to show conclusively which 
trees are best suited to each locality. 

SELECTION OF TREES 

Once the property owner has decided to set out trees the question 
arises : what species should he use ? Trees which do well in the Pan- 
handle will not prove desirable below the cap rock. Trees suitable for 
planting in wide parkings are poor varieties for narrow streets. In 
general, long lived trees should be selected. Trees should be chosen 
which do not sprout up from the roots or have disagreeable odors. Many 
otherwise admirable trees are untidy because of the quantities of fruit 
which fall and attract flies. Others lose their leaves early and should 
be avoided. The natural form should be such as not to necessitate con- 
stant pruning. Trees for narrow streets should have narrow columnar 
crowns, such as Lombardy poplar, while wide avenues are adapted to 
broad spreading species like the American elm and live oak. Cedar 
trees should not be planted close to apple trees or hawthorns because 
of the rust which has alternate stages on each of these trees. Black 
locust is undesirable in regions like Amarillo where the locust borer has 
become established. It is impossible in a short bulletin to go fully into 
the qualifications of each tree which might be used in Texas. The fol- 
lowing table will briefly show trees adapted or suited to varying con- 
ditions : 

TREES ADAPTED TO NARROW STREETS 

Lombardy poplar Black locust Mesquite 

Silver maple Hackberry Silver poplar 

Tree of heaven Carolina poplar 

Gingko Box elder 

TREES ADAPTED TO WIDE AVENUES 

Oaks Honey locust Willow 

Elm Magnolia Walnut 

Sycamore Pecan Camphor tree 

Sweet gum Ash Mulberry 

Basswood Cottonwood Eussian olive 

Tulip tree Eucalyptus Bois d'arc 

TREES EGR VERY SEVERE CITY CONDITIONS — NARROW PARKINGS, OIL, 

SMOKE, ETC. 

Tree of heaven Sycamore 

European plane tree (xingko 

SHORT-LIVED TREES 

Poplar Silver maple Hackberry 

Chinaberrv Box elder Black locust 



— G- 



Eucalyptus 
Mulberry 
Black locust 
Chinabern^ 



UNTIDY TREES 

Cottonwood 

Willow 

Gingko 

Tree of heaven, female 



Bois d'arCj female 
Japanese varnish 



TKEES SPROUTING BADLY FROM THE ROOTS 

Tree of heaven Cottonwood Black locust 

Poplar Willow 



UNDESIRABLE STREET TREES IN REGIONS WHERE OTHER VARIETIES THRIVE 



Cottonwood 
Carolina poplar 

Willow 



Tree of heaven 
Chinaberry 
Silver maple 



Box elder 

Evergreens 




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—12— 

DESCRirTION" OF TREES 

MAPLES — There are six iiiaplei? which grow naturally in Texas, only- 
two oi them heing desirable shade trees, however. These are the silver 
maple and the sugar maple. Another species, the ash-leaved maple, or 
box elder, has been successfully introduced in some parts of the state. 

SUGAR MAPLE (Acer saccharuni)~Th\s is a hardy tree with a 
compact oval crown; native in East Texas. It is an excellent tree in 
good soil with plenty of moisture, but will not do well under city con- 
ditions. Tn suburban situations and on lawns it has a distinct value. 

SHjVER maple or soft maple (Acer sacchari7mm)—A fast 

groM'ing tree with leaves dark green above and silvery beneath. The 

tree is rather short-lived with brittle branches. It is difficult to keep 

silver maple trained properly, and, furthermore, it is often injured by 
scales and borers. 

BOX ELDER (Acer negundo) — A tree similar in most characteris- 
tics to silver maple. The leaves are not silvery on the under side. The 
same advantages and drawbacks which apply to silver maple are also 
applicable to box elder. 

TREE OF HEAVEN OR PARADISE TREE (Ailanthus glandu- 
losa) — An Asiatic tree introduced to this country many years ago. It 
is a very rapid grower in its youth but soon becomes straggly and un- 
kempt. The leaves are ^compound and frond-like. Male and female 
flowers are borne on separate trees. While the seeds of the female plants 
are a nuisance they are less objectionable than the disagreeable odor of 
the staminate flowers. Its habit of sending up root suckers makes the 
tree of heaven rather undesirable, but under severe city conditions where 
smoke, dust and insufficient root space make it impossible to plant other 
trees the tree of heaven will survive and do fairlv well. 

HARDY CATALPA (Catalpa speciosa) — There are two catalpas 
native in the central states. However, common catalpa is a very un- 
satisfactory shade tree. It may be distinguished from hardy catalpa by 
the narrow pointed tuft of hair on the ends of the seeds, whereas hardy 
catalpa has a broad tuft. Catalpa is moderately fast growing and 
short-lived, quickly developing an uneven crown with bare branches 
crowned by bunches of large heart-shaped leaves. 

PAPER MULBERRY (Broussonnetia papyrifera) — A small Asiatic 
tree with cordate or three to five lobed leaves, hairy beneath. This tree 
is rather short-lived and inclined to be bushy, having a round head. It 
is liable to frost injury but is able to stand severe drouth and soil 
alkalinity. 

HACKBERRY (Celtis occidentalis) — The hackberry is a medium 
sized drouth-resistant tree with an oblong open crown. In Eastern 
Texas it is severely attacked by borers and leaf gall insects. The hack- 
berry is short-lived except under favorable soil and moisture conditions, 
and accordingly other trees should be given preference in general. It 
reaches its best development as a street tree in Central Texas. 



—13— 

SUGrARBEERY (Celtis mississippiensis) — A tree with habits sim- 
ilar to hackberry. The leaves are large and smoother and the tree 
reaches a larger size and greater age than the hackberry. Useful in 
Central and Southwestern Texas. 

DESERT WILLOW {CUlopsis Unearis)—A native of the West Texas 
draws. It stands drouths and much alkali. It is a small tree with 
showy flowers and long cylindrical seed pods. The leaves are linear. 
It is not regular in form, being similar to mesquite and willow in this 
regard. A desirable tree under severely dry conditions. 

ORAISTGE (Citnis sp.) — Various citrus fruit trees are used to ad- 
vantage as shade trees along the coast below Corpus Christi. Above 
Corpus Christi citrus trees are often seen but they do not reach the same 
development that they attain further south and are frequently injured by 
frost. They are medium sized to small trees with even rounded crown 
and dark green glossy leaves, being more useful for lawns than for 
street planting. They will not stand much frost. 

RUSSIAN OLIVE (Elaeagmts angustifoUa) — A handsome silvery- 
leaved medium sized tree. It. has a broad rounded head with a rather 
irregidar branching system similar to willow or mesquite. It stands 
drouth and alkali, showing remarkably fast growth. It needs some 
pruning to make a good shade tree for street purposes. 

BLUE CUM (Eucalyptus glohulus^ — Useful for planting along the 
gulf coast. Freezes back at Port Arthur. A tree reaching great size 
and age, of very- rapid growth, causing roots to ruin walks, sewerage 
systems and street pavements. Should be planted on wide avenues 
where it can have some protection, as it will not endure a temperature 
below 24 degrees Fahrenheit when young. It needs a humid climate 
with good soil for proper development. With shallow soil or insufficient 
soil moisture the growth of all eucalyptus trees is seriously retarded. 
Other varieties may prove successful in Texas but have not been tried 
out extensively as yet. RED GUM (E. rostrata) will stand a temper- 
ature of 13 degrees after it becomes established and shows some promise 
for the Southern coastal region. 

WHITE ASH (Fraxinus am ericana)— This ash is native in East 
Texas, growing in moist rich soils. The white ash is a large, well-formed 
tree, fairly clean except for the seeds and a good shade tree, more at home 
on lawns than on city streets, however. 

GREEN ASH (Fraxinus lanceolata) — This is one of the best shade 
trees which will grow in West Texas and the Panhandle. It is some- 
what smaller and shorter lived than white ash and stands a dry climate 
with alkali very well. It is fairly clean, does not break up and makes 
a shapely tree. 

MAIDENHAIR TREE OR GINGKO (Giiigko hiloha)— This is a 
Chinese tree introduced into the United States a number of years ago. 
Although it has not been planted extensively in Texas it has shown 
promise in the northeastern and central black land districts. It cannot 
be recommended strongly as yet because sufficient data on its adaptability 
is lackinsr. 




The pecan is the State tree. This one is a vigorous young specimen on the A. & M. College 

grounds. Except in Southwest Texas and the Panhandle the pecan is one 

of our best shade trees. 




The bois d'arc forms an excellant broad spreading crown. This tree in Denton, Texas, is 
growing in the region of its best development. • 



— 1 5— 

HONEY LOCUST {GUditsia inacanilios)—K tree with light feath- 
ery foliage bearing long seed pods Avhich are somewhat of a nuisance. 
It has a rounded head with stout branches and a strong root system. 
The thorns are objectionable, but a thomless variety {G. inermis) is 
offered for sale by most nursery dealers. It is a desirable tree for dry 
regions. 

PECAN (Hicoria pecaii) — The pecan has been designated the ojfficial 
state tree and as such it deserves a special mention. An excellent shade 
tree and a valuable nut tree, this species is an unusually desirable one 
to plant in the region of its best development. In the western part of 
the state it will thrive if given some cultivation and water. 

The pecan is rather hard to transplant and its growth is not rapid 
but it produces a unifonn oval crown, is fairly resistant to insects and 
disease, and is an abundant producer of excellent nuts. This last fea- 
ture is objectionable where trees are along highways, because of the break- 
age which results when nuts are clubbed off, a situation which frequently 
arises. 

HICKOEY {Hicoria spp.) — There are several varieties of hickorv 
which grow in East Texas, bitternut, shagbark, pignut, nutmeg and 
others. All of these would make fair shade trees were it not for their 
exceptionally slow growth. They require good moist soil and cannot 
compete with elm, ash^ sweet gum and many other faster growing trees. 

BLACK WALNUT (Juglans nigra) — The walnut is an excellent 
shade tree. It has a dense crown, is hardy, grows fairly fast, produces 
excellent nuts and the most valuable wood of any tree grown in Texas. 
It needs considerable cultivation and should be planted where it will 
receive a good supply of moisture. 

VARNISH TEEE, PEIUE OF INDIA {Koelreuteria paniculata) — 
Tliis tree is an exotic from Asia. It appears to stand alkali and low 
precipitation. It is grown in Kansas and Missouri and should do well 
in Western Texas. The varnish tree is rather short-lived and does not 
reach a great size but should be well suited to narrow streets. 

SWEET GUM, EED GUM {Liquidamher styraciflua)—The sweet 
gum is one of the best trees for shade in East Texas. It has a sym- 
metrical oval crown, star shaped leaves, and bears small spiny balls of 
seeds which are attractive in winter. It is a rather fast grower, long- 
lived and reaches a large size. It should be used in suburban situations 
since it is not adapted to severe city conditions. 

TULIP TEEE, YELLOW POPLAE {LiHodendron tulipifera) — 
The largest broad-leafed tree of the Atlantic coast. Although not native 
to Texas it makes an admirable shade tree where the soil is rich with 
good drainage. It has a round head with persistent cone-like fruits. 
It is hard to transplant and needs plenty of room. 

CHINABEEEY (Melia azedarach) — The chinaberry is an Asiatic 
tree which is much used for a shade tree throughout the state. It is a 
densely foliaged tree, with brittle wood, and irregular open crown and 
an abundance of white waxy fruits which make it an untidy tree for 
planting near sidewalks. It grows remarkably fast but quickly de- 



—16— 

teriorates, being especially susceptible to v/ind breakage and subsequent 
rot. It is a tree whicli should be used only where quick results are 
desired and then more permanent trees should be used also, to succeed 
it after a few years. 

UMBEELLA CHINABEERY, TEXAS UMBRELLA {Melia azeda- 
rach umbracuUfera) — This is an horticultural variety of the preceding 
species. It develops a flat umbrella-like crown, very dense and regular. 
It is a very handsome tree and a useful one for formal effects. How- 
ever, it has most of the defects that the chinaberry has ; brittle branches, 
much litter, and short period of attractiveness. 

WHITE MULBERRY (Morus a/&a)— Introduced from Europe. It 
■does well on dry lands but prefers a moist soil. It is a small tree with 
a round head, fairly well adapted for street planting, but the berries are 
objectionable on side^'alks. This is the silk-worm tree of Europe. 

RED MULBERRY (Morus rubra) — A native tree somewhat larger 
than the above named species. The red mulberry is hardy and makes a 
good shade tree in dry regions. The fruii attracts flies and is a dis- 
agreeable feature. 

RUSSIAN" MULBERRY (Morus alba tartarica)— This tree, a native 
of Asia, is hardier than any of the other mulberries, and although it is a 
small bushy tree, still it has some advantages for the treeless portion of 
the state. At elevations, above 1800 feet it is apt to be killed back by 
late frost. It is not long-lived but is a fairly rapid grower and not a 
heavy bearer, which is an advantage for shade purposes. 

OLEANDER (Nerium oleander) — A large shrub or small tree with 
& wealth of flowers. It thrives along the coast where the winters are 
not too severe and does well under severe city conditions. 

SOUR GUM, TUPELO (jYyssa sylvaiica)—A tall tree with slender 
drooping branches. The foliage is dark green and lustrous, assuming 
attractive shades in the fall. It is a slow growing tree suited to wet 
situations. The fleshy fraits are a disadvantage. The COTTON GUM 
(Nyssa aquat^ca) is very similar, to the sour gum. 

HUISACHE (Acacia farnesinna) — A small thorny tree with fragrant 
yellow flowers. It makes a fair street tree in Southwestern Texas but 
is a' slow grower and has a somewhat irregular crown. 

SYCAMORE (Platanus occidentalis) — One of the largest and best 
shade trees over most of the State. It is a fast grower, develops a large 
round head of stout l)ranches, and although susceptible to leaf diseases, 
yet those may be easily controlled by spraying. It is not attacked by 
insects nor affected by adverse city conditions. Furthermore, although 
best adapted to wet situations it will thrive with very little moisture 
and care. 

ORIENTAL PLANE TREE (Platanus orientalis)—A European 
tree more enduring of city conditions, and possessing a more compact 
crown than sycamore, but otherwise similar to it. It is a better tree 
than sycamore for city purposes, not being affected by leaf blight. 



—17— 

COTTONWOOD (Populus deltoides) —A large native tree with trem- 
bling leaves, found around water courses. It has a shallow extensive 
root system, suckers badly, and produces considerable "cotton," all of 
which is objectionable in a street tree. It is not a desirable tree for 
city streets and should be used only in exceptional cases and where plenty 
of water is available. 

CAROLINA POPLAR (Populus eugenia.) — A more desirable tree 
than the preceding species since it grows faster and has a more regular 
crown. Useful for quick effects on narrow streets. 

LOMBARDY POPLAR (Populus nigra var. italica) — A tall, slen- 
der, rapid growing poplar used for formal planting on very narrow 
streets. It is -hort lived, shallow rooted, liable to send root suck- 
ers and objectionable because of the "cotton." 

EMPRESS TREE, PRIDE OF INDIA (Paulonia imperalis)—A 
small, fast growing, Asiatic species with purple flowers. It has large 
leaves of a tropical appearance and is poorly adapted to planting along 
streets. 

MESQUITE (Prosopis juUflora) — The mesquite is a fairly good 

shade tree in the southwestern part of the state. It is a rather slow 

growing tree with an irregular crown of light foliage. Its only advan- 
tage is that it is very hardy and needs very little care. 

POMEGRANATE (Piinica granaium) — A small bushy tree suited 
to the lower coastal region but not especially adapted to street planting. 

OAKS — The oaks, as a class, are excellent street trees. They are 
with a few exceptions strong, well formed, long-lived and not subject 
to insect attacks. 

WHITE OAK (Qiierms alba) — A rather slow growing, long-lived, 
round-headed tree, sturdy, resistant, and cleanly. It makes an ideal 
street tree where there is plenty of water. 

BLUE JACK OAK (Qvercus cinerea) and BLACK JACK OAK 

(Q. marylandica) —^]ow growing, short-lived trees of the sand hills, 
poorly suited for street purposes or lawn planting. 

SPANISH OAK (Quercus digitafa) — A tree of good form, long- 
lived, suited to medium or wide streets. It needs considerable moisture. 

TEXAS Ox\K (Quercus iexana)—^.^ similar to* the Spanish oak. 

OVERCUP OAK (Quercus h/rata), BURR OAK (Q. macrocarpa), 
COW OAK (Quercus michauxii), BLACK 0-AK (Quercus velutina), 
and YELLOW OAK (Q. mulilenliergii) are all desirable shade trees. 

RED OAK (Q. ruhra) SCARLET OAK (Q. coccinea) are also ex- 
cellent trees for Northeast Texas. 

WATER OAK (Q. 7iigra) and WILLOW OAK (Q. phellos) are fast 
growing excellent shade trees, but cannot do much on dry sandy land. 

POST OAK (Quercus minor) — This is a very slow growing but long- 
lived species. Much prized on lawns where it occurs naturally, but 




Desirable introduction fnm the Orient. Japanese varnish trees on tie Texas A. & M. College 

campus. The large leaves, light green, smooth bark and high heads make 

these good trees for streets or lawns. 




Poplars and cottonwoods are fast growing trees but are short-lived. This picture was taken 

on the Texas A. & M. College campus where the compact soil makes it 

difficult to grow large well-formed trees. 



—19— 

seldom planted because of the difficulties encountered in transplanting 
and raising young trees. 

BLxVCK LOCUST {Ro'binia psetufacacia) — A rapid growing, short- 
lived, light foliaged tree standing considerable drought and alkali. It 
makes a handsome shade tree and is much used in the Panhandle and 
West Texas. It has a number of drawbacks, however, since it suckers 
badly and creates considerable litter with the seed pods. Furthermore, 
in places it is being exterminated by the locust borer [Cyllene robinae). 
Where the borers are not present it is a valuable lawn and street tree. 

BLACK WILLOW (Salix nigra) — A fast growing tree useful near 
Avater. It is not long-lived, and is too susceptible to disease and insect 
attacks to make it a good shade tree. Moreover, it is untidy in appear- 
ance and the shallow roots are a nuisance, breaking up walks, killing 
out grass, and when planted too close to ditches the roots tend to 
fill them up. 

CHINESE TAIiLOW TEEE (Sapium sehiferum)— The tallow tree 
is an xlsiatic species which does well in Texas. It makes a medium rate 
of groAvth but does not reach any great size. It has leaves similar to 
cottomvood, making a rather attractive small tree for narrow streets. 

PAGODA TREE {Sophora japonica)— An Asiatic tree of medium 
size which makes a moderately fast groAvth and stands a dry climate. 
The pagoda tree is a good tree for narrow streets in West Texas. 

JAPANESE VARNISH TREE {Sterculia platanifolia)— The Jap- 
anese varnish tree is another Asiatic tree which has found favor in this 
country. It is a moderately fast growing tree with smooth, light green 
bark and large leaves, resembling those of the sycamore. It does not 
form a full crown, but the dense clusters of large leaves on the ends of 
the branches make a satisfactory shade. This appears to be a desirable 
shade tree, 

BALD CYPRESS {Taxodium distich urn) — The cypress is a tree best 
suited to swamps but occasionally excellent specimens are found along 
road sides and in towns. The cypress is best used where formal effects 
are desired. It is a rather slow growing tree but a long-lived one, not 
affected by insects to any extent. 

SALT CEDAR, TAMARISK {Tamarix spp)— There are several vari- 
eties of salt cedar all introduced from foreign countries. They are re- 
markably hardy and make a good growth. Most varieties are shrubs 
but with training some may assume tree form. They have light feathery 
fclinge similar to the cedars but the leaves are sheet in the winter time. 
Only valuable for street purposes where other trees do not grow, par- 
ticularly in tlie Trans-Pecos region. 

BASSWOOD, LINDEN {TiUa americnna)— The linden is a native 
of East Texas that makes a medium sized tree of good form. It is an 
excellent shade tree but requires considerable moisture. 

BOIS D'ARC, OSAGi; ORANGE {Toxylon pomiferum)— The bois 
d'are is a tough tree, making a slow to average rate of growth. It has 
dark o-reon lustrous leaves formino- a broad rounded crown. The fruit 



—20— 

is a nuisance but is only borne on pistillate or female trees. It is long- 
lived and although in youth it needs some pruning, yet it is a very- 
desirable shade tree for the drier parts of the state, reaching its best 
development, however, along the Eed Eiver. 

AMEEICAN ELM {Ulmus americana) — The American elm is prob- 
ably the best shade tree over a larger area than any other tree in this 
country. It is the pride of New England cities, and has proven its 
value in the Panhandle towns. It does best in rich moist loam but 
thrives remarkably well on dry alkali soils. It is not a fast grower but 
attains a great size and age — features desirable in shade trees. The elm 
develops a high spreading crown adapted to wide avenues. In some 
regions it is badly injured by scales, borers, and defoliating insects, but 
in Texas it is fairly free and not more susceptible than many less de- 
sirable, trees. In the southern part of the state it suffers from the heat 
and loses its foliage early in the season, but in the northern and eastern 
sections this defect is not noticeable. 

CEDAR ELM (Ulmus crassifolia) — A native tree with small leaves. 
It is smaller, and shorter lived than American elm. It becomes too 
bushy to be a good shade tree and should never be used where American 
elm can be obtained. 

SLIPPERY ELM {Ulmuf^ fidva)—T\\e slippery elm is inferior to 
the American elm, being smaller and shorter lived. It has a poorer form 
than Amei-iean elm but is a fair shade tree. 

EVERGREENS — As a general rule evergreens are not desirable street 
trees but make excellent ornamental trees and with proper grouping 
give good mass results. Nearly all evergreens are difficult to trans- 
plant and show relatively slower growth than deciduous trees. 

HIMALAYAN CEDAR (Cedrus deodora)— The Himalyan cedar is 
an Asiatic species which has light foliage resumbling that of the fir trees 
somewhat. It has the conical habit typical of most evergreens of the 
cedar, fir and spruce type. It grows rather rapidly and seems to stand 
a considerable amount of dry weather, making a very desirable conifer 
for this region. 

CAMPHOR TREE (Cinnamomnm campliora) — A Chinese broad- 
leaved evergreen of medium size which grows rather rapidly and makes 
an excellent street tree. This tree is the source of commercial camphor 
which is made by boiling chips of v.'ood. 

ITALIAN CYPRESS (Cupressus sempervirens) — This European 
tree is an excellent one for specimen planting but should be used spar- 
ingly. It is narrow.ly conical in form, thus furnishing little shade. 
The foliage is dark grcoji, the cones golden brown and very showy. 

ARIZONA CYPRESS (Cvpressvs arizonica) — A native of Arizona, 
this tree is a very handsome evergreen with silvery blue foliage. It 
makes a rather rapid growth and becomes a medium sized tree similar 
in shape to Italian r-ypress. It appears to stand drought i^retty well, and 
for color effect it takes the place filled l)y l)lue spruce and white fir in 
the north. 



—21— 

RED CEDAE (Junlperus virginiana) — The red cedar and its west- 
ern counterpart, SOUTHERN RED CEDAR (J. harhacLenses) , are both 
native in Texas. They are the commonest evergreens in Central and 
Western Texas. They make slow growth but are long-lived and will 
grow in very dry situations and do with very little attention. 

HOLTjY {Tlex opaca) — A- very handsome East Texas broad-leaf ever- 
green with thick glossy loaves and conspicuous red berries. This tree 
makes a slow growth but reaches a fair size. It is pyramidal in youth 
but has a more rounded crown in later life. It is a good street tree 
when given plenty of room but is liable to suffer from vandalism, 

MACNOLIA, BULL BAY {Magnolia g r an diflor a)— T\us is a tall 
native evergreen with showy flowers. It makes a pyramidal head with 
a good branching system and tough, thick, lustrous leaves. It is an 
excellent lawn tree and a good street tree. Other magnolias are also 
userl, principally U:\1BRELLA TREE {M. tripetala), CUCUMBER 
TREE (.¥. acuimnata) and SWEET BAY {M. glaum). 

BLUE SPRUCE (Picca parryana) — This is a very popular ornamen- 
tal t]-ee in the north I:)ut in Texas it makes very slow growth. Its blue 
green foliage and regular form, however, make it desirable in the Pan- 
handle and at high elevations. It needs plenty of water and care. In 
general, Arizona cypress and Himalayan cedar will fill its place in Texas. 

AUSTRTx4.1Sr PINE [Pinus austriaca) — A European evergreen which 
makes a alow growth but stands drought and heat fairly well. It is a 
long-lived tree and a large one at maturity. 

JACK PINE (Pinus divaricata) — A northern pine which grows rap- 
idly during its youth. It makes a medium sized tree which does well 
in dry sandy regions. 

LONGLEAF PINE (Pinus paIustri.9)—Tl\Q longleaf pine does well 
on very poor sandy soils. It is long-lived and becomes a large tree. 
Longleaf pine is a native of East Texas and has not been planted suc- 
cessfully west of the East Texas timber belt. It has an excellent form 
and is a good tree for the eastern part of the state. 

SIIORTLEAF PINE (Pinus ediinata,)— This native pine makes a 
satisfactory shade tree in East Texas and may be grown possibly west 
of Fort Worth and Waco, although very little planting of pines has been 
done in that region. 

AYESTERN YELLOW PINE (Pinus ponderosa)— This Rocky Moun- 
tain tree occurs naturally at higher elevations in Southwest Texas. It 
is a slow growing long-lived pine which needs a rather cool situation 
but thrives where the rainfall is very low. It does well at Amarillo. 

SCOTCH PINE (Pinus syl v (^ si ris)— The Scotch pine is a European 
tree which stands low precipitation and poor sandy soil. It is moder- 
ately fast growing nnd long-lived. It should prove to be a valuable 
tree for West Texas. 

LOBLOLLY PINE (Pinus iacda)—A native East Texas pine which 
extends farther west than its two associat(>s, longleaf and'shortleaf pine. 



—22— 

It is the fastest grower and has the hest form of the three trees. Its 
western range can probably be extended somewhat but very little ex- 
perimental planting with the pines has been done. 

LIVE OAK (Quercus virginiana) — A magnificent broad crowned 
evergreen oak, native of Central Texas. It is a slow grower but reaches 
innnense size and an old age. Because of its wide spreading crown it 
r-liould be given plenty of room. It makes a very dense shade with its 
dark green glossy leaves. 

APtBORVITAE (Thuja occidentalis)—k compact hardy tree with 
scale-like leaves and dry cones instead of the "berries" Avhicli are found 
on cedar. The twigs are flattened fan-like. The arborvitae grows mod- 
erately fast and makes a fair sized tree. It can be trimmed to any de- 
sired form. It appears to stand dry hot summers very well and makes 
a gotid hedge tree. 

CHINESE ARBOKVITAE {Thuja orientalis)—A Chinese tree sim- 
ilar to the above species but even hardier. Many nursery varieties of 
the arborvitae trees have been propagated, varying widely in size, form, 
and color. 

OLIVE (Olea euro pea) — A medium sized broadleaf evergreen much 
used along the gulf. 

Many Aarieties of palms and semi-tropical trees are being tried out 
along the coast and the exact limits of their ranges have not been de- 
iennined. 

A safe rule to follow is to plant what your neighbor has had success 
with. This is conservative, of course, and many other varieties may do 
as well or even better than those which are found in any particular 
locality. Nursery men are apt to be over-enthusiastic about new intro- 
ductions or to describe unusual results as what could commonly be ex- 
pected. It is well not to put too high hopes in unproven trees. On the 
other hand no one perfect shade tree has been discovered. Each has its 
good points and its poor ones. One tree is short-lived, another is hard 
to transplant, yet another is especially subject to insect attacks, and so 
it goes. The list given above might have been doubled or trebled with- 
out exhausting all the possibilities for planting in the state. There 
are 200 or more native trees in Texas, and the list of exotics which 
might be of value in some parts of the state is a long one. 

PLANNING LOCATION 

After selecting the proper variety of tree for the street in question 
the next point to be decided is the proper location of the trees and their 
))roper spacing. The tendency is always to space trees too closely. This, 
of course, is due to the desire on the part of the planter to secure a 
maximum of shade in a minimum of time. This close spacing would 
be of minor importance — perhaps desirable from an aesthetic standpoint 
if the trees were thinned out as soon as they started to interfere. How- 
ever, once the trees get large enough to interfere with one another they 
have assumed a place in the owners affections which warps his good judg- 
ment. They seem to be too valuable to be cut out just now and are 
left for a few years longer. Tlie result is that by the time they are 



—23— 

remoTod the remaining trees have become crippled and have had their 
crown iymmeiry impaired. Parts of the crowns have been suppressed 
and the trees cannot recover even when 'the interfering trees are removed. 
Therefore, the safest thing to do is to space properly in the beginning. 
The distance apart Avill vary for different species and for the same 
species in different soils and climates. In East Texas and in rich bot- 
tom lands the trees will need ten to fifteen feet more room than in dry 
situations with poor soils. Trees suited to narrow streets should be spaced 
about thirty feet apart, those for medium width streets forty feet and 
those adapted to wide streets v/illneed fifty or more feet of space when 
they are mature. Normally trees are planted abreast on opposite sides 
of a street, but where wide spreading trees are planted along narrow 
streets it may be advisable to alternate them. On lawns, trees are best 
planted informally in groups rather than in rows. 

In no case should trees be placed at the corner of intersecting streets, 
since in such locations they are especially liable to injury by pedestrians 
or by teams and automobiles if there are no curbings. Furthermore, 
when the trees are young they will obstruct the view of vehicles and 
interfere with traffic. 

Trees should be uniformly spaced in regular rows for symmetrical 
results. They should be so placed that they will not interfere with wires, 
otherwise they will be mutilated by linemen, or to avoid this it will be 
necessary to cut the tops back below the wire. 

On lawns and private grounds a row of trees or a group may be needed 
to screen an outbuilding or to give a sense of privacy to the home. In 
general, there will he no formal planting in rows or along geometrical 
lines. ■ Informal grouping to simulate the natural occurrence of trees in 
parks should be done. 

Trees in cities are living under unnatural conditions. A deficiency 
in moisture and sim light, combined with excessive smoke and dust, 
make it imperative that the soil conditions be as favorable as possible. 
A hole four feet square and three feet deep should be dug. Ordinarily 
sterile subsoil is thrown up to form parkings when streets are built. 
Therefore good top soil should be secured to fill in with. If the park- 
ing space is narrow or tlie rainfall insufficient, pipes or tiles should be 
secured for sub-irrigating. 

The best time for planting trees is between November and March. 
It is merely necessary that the tree be dormant and the ground un- 
frozen. February is the planting month for the whole state and the 
date for Arbor Day has been Avell chosen — February 22. Ideal condi- 
tions prevail when the day is cool and cloudy right after a rain while 
the ground is moist. The feeding roots are very tender, being easily 
dried out and killed, especially the roots of evergreens. In order to 
avoid this, roots ought to be ^'puddled"; that is, they should be coated 
with thick mud before being taken to the planting site. They should be 
kept covered and protected from sun and wind as much as possible, since 
an exposure of five minutes is fatal to pine seedlings, and other trees 
will stand very little more. 

After all preparations for planting have been made a cone of earth 
should be piled in the middle of the hole and the tree set down so that 
it will be as deep in its new situation as it was before transplanting. 
The roots should then be spread out in a more or less natural position 



Tf?£E PLANT/NG 

SP£rc/ r/ Cy^ T/o/vs, 



Se/ec / /o ng- //v'ed^ h arQ(yj t^/'e//- shapec/ 
Trees cyc/cypf^cy to yoor so// anc/ 
c//ma/£' . Comu/fSfo/e /^ore^/er. 



TWo-Znch frees 
i/y/f/? /orgs f/brous 
roo^S ^4- •jy^^netr/ca/ 



Prune hranc/ie^ /o 
ch ecU eya^ oraT/ o rj. 



/.oi^esf /srarjc/} 7~6 :^€/. 
c/i>o ye payen?en/. 

l^/re g(-^arc^ ^ /r/ch /nes/i 
6 fee 7 /j 'gn. /jose- af tot> 
-to /oreyenr eho/f'na . 



77 ec/ fo sA//re h^/'/A 
rac^^o/'f ro/:^ or /pose. 

Terj-foot fS /r)c/) 
ss/o/KejS // /ft S'^ocnc/. 



Jrr/ga^/ng 
- pipe - 



//o/c J fee/ c/eep 
f,//e</ rvy//, fetfi/t 
/op so//. 




lefy sguare /pe/ o/ ope*7 
grounc/ Aep/ co///ya/ec/ 



(/se graZ/rtg/o preyer)/ 
grour)c/ /rom pac/(/rjg 
/>arc/. 



/. oajc mu/e/). 



/^d// c o/?e <?/ c//rf 
/n bo//om. Spreac/ 
roof J oufih poc/c 
e/f. 



and tlie dirt piled in slowly and packed down well around them. Care 
should be taken that no large stones or pieces of dry roots, bark, wood 
or grass come in contact with the roots to cause air spaces, since these 
cause the roots to dry out. The top layers may have some rocks and 
coarser dirt, but the better the earth the better the tree growth. The 
last dirt to be thrown in should not be packed, and over it some loose 
hay should be spread to act as a mulch. 

SUBSEQUENT CARE 

All nursery stock is pruned before it is received from the dealer, but 
when unpruned deciduous trees are received they should be cut back in 
order to balance tlie shock caused by the failure to get the whole root 
system. Evergreens, especially conifers, such as pines, spruce and fir, 
cannot be pruned, which accounts somewhat for their higher mortality 
at planting time. The diagram on page 34 illustrates correct pruning 
and planting. If the planted sapling is to develop into a desirable 
ornamental tree it must be given considerable attention and care. It 
is not advisable to water trees very frequently, but when they are watered 
a thorough job should be dene. Frequently a mound of dirt around the 
tree will be enough to make this possible. Three inches of water can be 
easily turned in and Mall gradually soak down to the roots. Surface 
irrigation tends to draw the roots to the surface, however, and makes 
them susceptible to slight droughts, while sub-surface irrigation will 
prevent this largely by attracting tlie roots to the water level. A good 
thorough watering every ten days in dry weather should be sufficient 
for even those trees which require considerable soil moisture. 

Even more important than irrigation is cultivation. Frequent culti- 
vations during the growing season is a great l)enefit to a tree. Weeds 
and grass sap the moisture and fertility from the soil and must be kept 
down. A space at least four feet in diameter must be kept clean and 
mulched. 

Only a few trees develop naturally into the desired form. Most trees 
become twiggy, bushy, or stragglv. They need pruning or training in 
order to direct the growth into those branches which will give the tree 
a symmetrical appearance. Pruning is also essential for the removal 
of dead, diseased, or injured limbs. 

Dead limbs may be removed at any time, but live limbs should be 
cut during the winter if possible. They may be cut at other seasons, 
"but during early spring, pruning will cause the tree to "bleed" and will 
injure it somewhat, while late summer pruning may stimulate growth 
and make the new shoots liable to frost injury. 

In pruning it is desirable to maintain the natural form of the tree, 
merely removing limbs where they are too thick or raising the head by 
rcr'oving branches. oji the under side of the lower limbs. 

The weight of large limbs will often cause them to split and rip the 
Lark when a straight cut through from the upper side is attempted. 
The safest way to prune is to make three cuts as shown in figures on 
page 28. The first or undercut prevents the limb from splitting past 
where the final cut is to be made. In all events the cut must be made 
as nearly Hush with the main or parent limb as can be. No stub should 
be left isolated from the flow of sap to ultimately harbor rot and weaken 
the tree. 



—26— 

J^v'jrgre'ons should be pruned very sparingly. Dead or dying limbs 
must be lemoA^ed, of course, and occasionally a limb should be taken off 
to prevejit a crown from becoming one-sided. Lower limbs should not 
be removed from small trees as a general rule, as this spoils the sym- 
metry of the tree and makes them top heavy. This is tnie of the coni- 
fers, but the broadleaf evergreens, like live oak and magnolias, may be 
handled like tljc deciduous trees. 

It is nighly desirable to use fertilizer to maintain the food materials 
in the soil. Too often trees are starved to death. Commercial fer- 
tilizer should be applied rather sparinglv since it is easy to get too much 
and thus injure instead of benefit the tree. 

TREE TROUBLES AND REMEDIES 

City trees are subject to many injuries, diseases and insect attacks 
due to their unnatural surroundings. They must be carefully watched 
and kept in as thrifty a condition as possible so that they may be re- 
sistant to a great extent or able to recover quickly in case they do suffer 
some reverse. 

INSECTS 

Insects are the bane of a tree's existence in the forest and even more 
so in the city where natural parasites are lacking and birds are rela- 
tively scarce. The insects which attack trees may be classed under three 
general heads according to their various feeding habits. These three 
classes are known as sucking insects, borers, and defoliators. Each class 
must be combated in a different manner. 

Tiie sucking insects include scales, mealy bugs, and plant lice. They 
feed on plant juices through sucking mouth-parts. Scales are minute 
hard-bodied flat or slightly convex insects which fasten themselves closely 
to the trunk, twigs, or leaves, and usually are unable to move around 
after they assume the adult form. The younger stages of scale insects 
may fly and migrate, however. The oyster shell scale is a well known 
example of this class of insects. Another is the cottony niaple scale, 
which is much larger than most of the scales and which secretes a mass 
of white waxy threads. Mealy-bugs are soft-bodied small insects which 
are characterized by the waxy, 'cotton-like covering which they exude. 
Citrus mealy bugs attack many orange trees in this state. Plant lice 
are soft-bodied insects, too well known to require further description. 
They feed only on young tender shoots and are often found injuring 
willow and poplar. 

Scales. — Since the control methods are essentially the same for all 
scales they will be considered as a group. They are best combated in 
winter, since stronger sprays may be used and more satisfactory results 
obtained. 

Lime-sulphur is the most useful spray against scale insects, and, fur- 
thermore, it has some value as a fungicide. Lime-sulphur may be se- 
cured ready made, needing only dilution to be ready for use. Usually 
10 per cent stock solution to 90 per cent water will give satisfactory 
results. Lime-sulphur may be made at home if desired but the com- 
mercial product is preferable. 



—27— 



FOHMULA FOIJ LIME-SULl'IIUR SPRAY 



Unslaked lime 40 lbs, flowers of sulphur 30 lbs, water 100 oallons 
iieat the water, and to one-half the quantity add the lime. The slak- 

'"1 ""ilJ ^?'^ *^' T?^f'^ ^"^ "^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^Pl^^^-' "^ixed as a paste 
with a little water, should be added and the whole stirred. Finally add 
the rest of the water and strain before using- in the sprayer 
Another good remedy is kerosene emulsion prepared as follows : 

KEROSENE EMULSION 

Whale oil soap ^ pound, kerosene oil 2 gallons, water 1 gallon. 

Boil water, dissolve soap and add kerosene, pumping vigorously until 
the ojl goes into emulsion, forming a creamv stock solution, which 'should 
be diluted Math fifteen to twenty times its bjilk of water for use in sum- 
mer spraying for soft-bodied insects. 

Some miscible oils are on the market which do not require hot water 
or strenuous pumping before being ready for use. 

Meahj hugs should be sprayed with kerosene emulsion or with carbolic 
acid solution, which is prepared as follows: 

_^ CARBOLIC ACID EMULSION 

Whale oil soap 40 pounds, crude carbolic acid 5 gallons, water 35 
gallons. 

Heat the water and add the soap. After it is dissolved add the acid 
and boil for twenty minutes. Use twenty parts of water to one of the 
stock emulsion. This is good for soft scales and plant lice as well as 
mealy bugs. 

Plant Lice. These insects multiplv very rapidly and do severe dam- 
age to the tender growing parts of trees. They should be sprayed with 
carbohc acid emulsion, kerosene emulsion, or soap wash. 

SOAP WASH 

Whale oil soap or hard laundry soap 1 pound, water 5 gallons. 

Borers may be divided again into bark borers and wood borers. Bark 
borers are specially dangerous as they attack a tree in the cambium layer 
right below the inner bark. This is the growing part of the tree, and 
if the cambium is girdled the circulation of plant"'food is cut off, causing 
death. Borers are worm-like grubs which develop into moths or beetles 
after spending most of their life cycle in the bark of the tree. Their 
presence can be detected by the entrance or exit holes, by the boring 
du:,t, avA in the spring of the year by the flow of sap froin the boring 
galleries. Bark-borers frequently kill out large trees, and should be 
promptly combated. They commonly breed in" dead or dying trees, so 
the first step is to get rid of all trees which constitute a piiblic nuisance 
by harboring insect pests. This will largely eliminate the source of 
.-upplv. There is no positive preventive for" borers, but whitewash or 
cement paint will act as a deterrent. 

WHITEWASH FOR BORERS 

Quick lime 3 pounds, caustic potash 2 ounces, crude carbolic acid 1 
ounce, water 2 gallons. ' 



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—29- 



CEMENT PAIXT 



I'ortlaiid cemeiil, skimmed milk. Add enough milk to reduce the 
cement to the consistency of thick paint. 

Either of these two applications should be painted on the trunk and 
larger branches as far up as the insects are likely to attack, usually ten 
or twelve feet. If the bark is rough and scaly it should be smoothed off 
first. Cement paint is good for one whole season, but whitewasli should 
be applied t^ace during the growing season for best results. 

It is very difficult to eliminate borers once they have obtained a foot- 
hold. The individual boring holes must be probed with wires or sat- 
urated with carbon bisulphide (high life) squirted in with an oil can, 
after which the hole must 1)e plugged up with clay, putty, or some other 
handy material. The third alternative is the obvious one of gouging 
out the holes until the worm is found and killed. 

Wood borers are found boring through the heart and sap wood of 
healthy, dead, and dying trees. They are only slightly less dangerous 
than bark beetles, causing the death of many large veteran trees and 
often weakening the limbs of others so much that they are readily broken 
off in a heavy wind. They may be controlled to some extent by the 
same means that are used against bark borers, mentioned above. 

Defoliaiing insecis are easy to control but if left unmolested the strip- 
ping of the leaves will seriously weaken the tree. Three successive de- 
foliations will usually kill a deciduous tree, while one complete defolia- 
tion may kill coniferous evergreens,' which are not very resistant to the 
attacks of these insects. 

It is sometimes practical to creosote egg-clusters or to collect the nests 
and bum them, but the usual way to attack this class of insects is to 
spray the foliage on which it feeds with arsenate of lead, which can be 
procured in any town. Two and one-half pounds of poison to forty 
gallons of water is the strength commonly used. 

Red spiders are best controlled by lime-sulphur dust, which is a powder 
composed of equal parts of flowers of sulphur and dehydrated lime. 

Banding is occasionally useful, to prevent insects from crawling up 
trees. Such insects as the bag-worm, the female of which cannot fly, 
may thus be prevented from gaining access to trees already free from 
their attacks. 

■nA\TDINd MIXTURE 

Eesin 16 pounds, castor oil 1 gallon. 

Heat until the resin is melted, then dip ropes in the mixture. The 
ropes, covered with the banding compound, should then be tied around 
the trees about four or five feet above the ground and renewed every ten 
days or oftener if the mixture begins to dry and harden. 

FUXGI 

The next most important cause of injury to shade trees is fungus or 
rot. Fungus diseases come under six heads: heart rot, sap rot, root 
rot, canker, bark diseases, and leaf blight. 

Hern-t rot commonly occurs in old trees, which may be so badly 
affected that the heart wood is entirely disintegrated, leaving the hol- 
low tree to be supported by the outer shell of bark and sap wood. Since 
the heart wood of the tree is dead wood its onlv function can be to 



—30— 

brace and support it. Accordingly the removal of the heart wood does 
not necessarily result in the death of the tree. Death in such cases may 
result from windbreak. Heart rot gains access to a tree through branch 
stubs, through roots, or through deep scars and injuries. It often gets 
a start in street trees through the dying back of a stub in the top caused 
by poor pruning at the time of planting and subsequent neglect. It is 
common practice to top back forest grown trees to a point where the 
main stem is from one inch to three inches in diameter. The new growth 
is apt to start several inches below the cut, thus allowing the end to die 
and become infected. Such dead ends should be removed and the scar 
painted. 

Sap rots usually result from the spread of heart rots or occiir in dying 
trees. They are serious since the function of the sap wood is to serve 
as a transporting mediumi for the food material from which the wood 
cells are built. By killing out this layer the circulation of sap is in- 
terfered with and if the rot extends completely around the tree the host 
may be killed. 

Heart and sap rots are prevented by careful pruning, followed by 
covering the wounds with paint, tar, or creosote. All insect o-alleries 
serve as a point of access for fungus spores. Such holes sliould be 
drained and painted. 

There are three methods of treatment for cavities and diseased places 
in shade trees. They are called the open cavity, cement filling, and 
asphalt filling treatments. At the present time the tendency is to do 
as much open treatment as possible. 

Excavating Rots. In repairing a tree affected by rot the first step 
is to bore in at several places to locate the exact extent of the rot. It 
may be feasible to excavate from one hole entrance or again two or 
more may be needed. In cutting out decayed wood it is essential that 
all the rot be removed. The so-called ''rots" often extend several 
inches into apparently sound healthy wood. It iis frequently impos- 
sible to tell whether the decayed portion has been entirely cut out, but if 
the cavity is left open a subsequent examination will clear up all doubts. 

Excavating Tools. A mallet, a half round gouge, and two or three 
chisels of various sizes are handy tools for this work. Large cavities 
may be opened to advantage with hand axes. After all the decayed part 
has been removed the bottom of the cavity should be provided with drain- 
age to prevent water from standing there. It is not essential to have 
the walls absolutely smooth, but they should not have large crevices that 
may harbor insects. The mouth of the cavity should be made regular, 
and where possible the shape should be oval, tapering toward the top 
and bottom. This type of hole heals over quickest, while square ends 
often result in dead areas adjoining the hole due to the failure of the 
sap to properly nourish them. 

Painting. There are several good covering substances on the market 
for painting over wounds. The creosote compounds penetrate well and 
act as antiseptics. Tar is good, and roofing or asphalt paints are very 
satisfactory. Ordinary house paint is better than nothing, but is apt 
to crack, affording an opening for moisture and disease spores. Car- 
bolineum is an excellent antiseptic paint. 

Sheet Metal. A modification of the open cavity treatment is the use 
of sheet metal nailed across the cavity opening. In such cases the bark 



—31— 

and the cambium layer, which is the growing part of the tree just below 
the bark, should be cut back to form a shelf to which the metal is nailed. 
It is necessary to have the metal shaped to the opening and care mast 
be taken that it does not overlap the cambium or bark anywhere since 
then the new wood would work in under and pry it up instead of closing 
in over it. The open cavity treatment or this modification of it is use- 
ful for very large cavities and where stress or bending might cause 
asphalt or concrete to crack. 

Asphalt Filling. The asphalt method is used for openings where little 
bending occurs or for relatively small holes. The cavity is cleaned out 
and prepared just as for the open treatment. The mixture used is about 
one part of asphalt (heated) to six parts of sand or sawdust. This mix- 
ture is packed in with a trowel behind a metal front. 

Concrete Filling. The concrete method of filling cavities is restricted 
to small holes or ones at the base of the tree where there will not be 
much bending. The preliminary steps are identical with those under- 
taken before using asphalt. After the walls of the cavity are painted 
with tar or earbolineum, nails or iron braces are fastened to them to 
help retain the concrete. It is necessary to have the cavity wedge- 
shaped, smaller at the mouth than at the back in order to retain the 
oement properly. (See diagram., page 28.) The filler is one part of 
Portland cement to three parts of coarse sand or gravel. If the dry 
method is used then only enough water is added to make the mixture 
capable of being molded. It must then be packed in solidly and tamped. 
If the wet method is used a sack or cloth must be nailed across the mouth 
of the cavity and the soft concrete filled in behind it. Before the cement 
has entirely hardened the sack should be taken off and the edges of the 
cement trimmed back below the cambium. The cement must not be 
allowed to bulge at the mouth. It should be flat or very slightly convex 
if the wood is to heal over it properly. A waterproofing concrete paint 
should be used to exclude moisture from the filler. 

Root rots are caused by disease organisms which spread through the 
soil and are very difficult to combat. The common cotton root rot and 
others closely allied may cause large trees to wilt and die within a few 
hours. There seems to be no practical remedy for such diseases and 
little or no forewarning that they are present and threaten to do dam- 
age. Where a tree has been killed by root rot no other tree should be 
planted in that location since the disease is in the soil and new trees 
will almost certainly be attacked. 

Barh Diseases. Canker and bark diseases are common on poplar and 
many other trees. All diseased bark and wood should be cut out and 
the wound treated with creosote. 

Blight. Leaf blight and leaf spot diseases are caused by mildews, and 
may be controlled by spraying with a good fungicide like Bordeaux mix- 
ture or lime-sulphur wash. (See page 37.) Bordeaux mixture may be 
purchased ready made but cannot be made up at home to good advan- 
tage owing to the rather expensive apparatus needed for preparing it. 
Eaking and burning all fallen leaves will greatly assist in the control 
of diseases affecting the foliage. 

WEATHEE INJURY 

Dry weather injury can be minimized by frequent cultivation and 
occasional thorough irrigations, preferably through pipes or tiles sunk 
around the roots of the trees. 



—32— 

Sun scald oause.s the bark on the south and west sides of young, thin- 
barked trees to die and crack off. This may be avoided by wrapping 
burlap around the trunk or by using wood veneer guards. Where this 
injury has occurred the loose bark should be removed and the wound 
painted. 

Wind and snow often cause large limbs to split off. Such injuries 
should be smoothed over and painted. Care should be taken that no 
place is left in which water can accunmlate. Splits may be prevented 
by bracing any limbs which have weak crotches. The best way is to 
use eye bolts through tlie limbs two to six feet above the crotch and 
connect them with a strong wire cable. In using bolts, the hole where 
the head and washer come sliould l)e counter sunk below the cambium 
and later filled with asphalt. 

MISCELLAN^EOUS INJURIES 

Street trees are very apt to be injured by horses. Where this danger 
exists the tree should be protected by iron or wooden guards made large 
enough to avoid strangling the tree. Frequent examinations are neces- 
sary to insure that the tree is not being girdled by the guard. 

Where parking spaces are small or where the ground may be tramped 
down solidly there is danger that there will be insufficient soil moisture 
and a deficiency of air for the roots. The use of grills or gratings 
around the base of these trees will provide better ventilation and will 
permit more moisture to reach the roots. 

Escaping gas, ice cream salt, smoke, grade changing, and many other 
causes are responsible for tree sickness in cities. When in doubt write 
to the State Forester for advice. 

THE BEST TREES FOR TEXAS 

(See map, page 6.) 

For East Texas the best trees for shade are American elm, water oak, 
willow oak, burr oak, sycamore, sweet gum, pecan, and white ash. Only 
slightly less valuable are sugar maple, black walnut, tulip tree, overcup 
oak, Spanish oak, Texan oak, and haekberry. Of the evergreens the 
best are live oak, holly, magnolia, longleaf pine, shortleaf pine, loblolly 
pine, and Himalayan cedar. 

In Central Texas the best trees are haekberry, American elm, syca- 
more, water oak, willow oak, burr oak, Texan oak, and pecan. Next in 
importance come green ash, white ash, overcup oak, Spanish oak, box 
elder, black walnut and mulberry. Of the evergreens red cedar, Hima- 
layan cedar, Arizona and Italian cypress, loblolly pine, and live oalc 
are best. 

In South Texas the most satisfactory shade trees are hackberr}% black 
walnut, mulberry, and pecan. Of the other trees which grow there, box 
elder, silver maple, pomegranate, yucca, palmetto, loquat, and mesquite 
are fair. Olive, camphor, live oak, red cedar, and Arizona cypress are 
the best of the evergreens. 

Southwest Texas has a climate and soil not adapted to tree growing. 
Irrigation is needed in any event. With some attention and occasional 
waterings honey locust, black locust, cottonwood, silver poplar, and salt 



—33— 

cedar do well. Umbrella china, mulberry, silver maple, box elder and 
Eussian olive rank next in value. Of the evergreens red cedar, Scotch 
pine and Arizona cypress grow well. It is probable that others will be 
found suited once they have been tested. 

In the Panhandle the most desirable trees are black locust, honey 
locust, American elm, green ash, and silver maple. Closely following 
this group come box elder, Eussian olive, silver poplar, hois d'arc, and 
hackbetry. Scotch pine, jack pine, western yellow pine, red cedar, Him- 
alayan cedar, and Arizona cypress do well among the evergreens. Below 
the caprock umbrella china, catalpa, and paper mulberr}' make good 
shade trees. 

Almost as important as climate in determining tree distribution is 
soil types. The tables on pages 7 to 11 give more specifically the situa- 
tions and localities in which the several species will grow and make 
satisfactory trees. 

THE CITY FORESTER 

Even' large Texas city should have a City Forester to handle the 
selecting, procuring, planting, cultivating, spraying, trimming, and pre- 
serving or removiaig of all trees in the city streets. The smaller cities 
and towns may handle this work througli some civic organization or 
tree club composed of enthusiastic interested ])arties. 

The City Forester and the board under which he works should be 
free from political influences. This is particularly essential because 
of the character of the work which deals largely in the future. Eesults 
are not always apparent in a year's time and the City Forester should 
be protected from political whims until he can carry out his policies. 
He should be appointed by the board of city development or park board 
and should work under its direction. Since a City Forester must deal 
with people^ must be a good talker and a good mixer, must know trees, 
insects and diseases and how to treat them, must know the principles 
of landscaping and must be versed in repair work, it is apparent that 
he must be trained for the work. He should have the ability to or- 
ganize community clubs, to address schools, and to prepare articles for 
the press. Several cities have already called on the State Forester for 
assistance in securing a capable, trained, technical man, and he will be 
glad to put other cities in touch with men. 

All tree work should be regulated by the City Forester and suitable 
ordinances should be passed giving him authority to properly handle 
the work and enforce the regulations. 

The following regulations may serve as a guide : 

1. The board of (insert name) shall have full power and authority 
over all trees planted and to be planted in any of the streets or public 
places of the city, including the right to plant new trees and to care 
for the same, and to trim, spray and otherwise care for such trees, and 
to remove trees, living or dead. 

2. The board of (inseri, name) is authorized to appoint a City For- 
ester and such other employes and assistants as may be necessary, and 
to prescribe and define their respective duties and to fix the amount of 
their compensation. Such Forester shall be an expert, trained in the 
care and culture of trees. 

3. The board of (insert name) shall recommend to the (insert iiame 
of civic legislative body) from time to time, ordinances to be enacted 



—34— 

by the said (insert name of civic legislative body) for the planting, 
care and protection of trees in the streets and public places of the city; 
but no such ordinance not recommended by the said board shall be 
enacted by the (insert name of civic legislative body). Nor shall any 
ordinance enacted pursuant hereto be altered or repealed without the 
recommendation of said board. 

4. The (insert name of civic legislative body) shall, every year, 
grant to the board of (insert name) such sum of money as it shall re- 
quire and as to the said (insert name of civic legislative body) shall 
appear reasonable and just, for the planting, maintaining and caring 
for the trees of the city, for purchasing or raising new trees, and for 
other expenses contemplated by Sections 1, 2, 3 and 4 of this act. 

5. No person shall, without the written permit of the board of (in- 
sert name) cut, remove, plant, break or injure any tree, plant or shrub 
in any of the streets or public places in the city of (insert name). 
Nor shall any person injure, misuse, or remove any device placed and 
intended to protect any tree, plant or shrub in any part of the streets 
or public places of the city of (insert name). Nor shall any person 
fasten a horse to any tree, plant or shrub, or to any device intended to 
protect the same, or place a post for the hitching of horses within five 
feet of any tree, plant or shrub in any of the streets or public places 
of the city of (insert name). 

6. No building material or any other material of any description 
shall be piled up against any street tree unless said tree is first sufli- 
ciently' protected by a proper guard to prevent possible injury, and all 
instructions issued for that purpose by the board of (insert name) must 
be promptly complied with by the owner. 

7. The board of (insert name) shall have. power to remove any wire 
conduit or other thing that bums, cuts or chafes any part of any tree, 
whether trunk, root or branch, in any street or public place, in case the 
owner of the wire shall fail after three days' written notice to take ade- 
quate steps to prevent further injury. 

8. No paving of any description shall be laid or maintained by 
anyone between the sidewalk and the curb which shall cut off the air 
and water from any tree. 

Local conditions will dictate what other ordinances will be needed in 
order to adequately protect the city trees. 

For the convenience of persons who desire to secure trees the follow- 
ing list of nurserymen is given. This list includes those dealers who 
grow shade trees and general nursery stock. There are also a number 
of out-of-state nurserymen who do business in Texas. 

TEXAS NURSERY DEALERS 
Name of Firm. Postofflce. 

Adams, II . J Cibolo 

Allen, J. H Friendswood 

Allen Bros Pottsboro 

Alleshouse, M. L Arcadia 

Alvin Japanese Nursery Alvin 

Alvin Plant Farm " Alvin 

Arlington Nursery Arlington 

Austin Nursery Co ... Austin 

Avlesworth, D! C Plainview 



—35— 

Name of Firm. Postofflce. 

Baker Bros. Co._ Fort Worth 

Barnes, H. W Pittsburg 

Barthlome, A Corpus Christi 

Birdsall, A. D Almeda 

Black's Nursery ■. . Mt. Pleasant 

Bonham Nursery Bonham 

Brown Nursery and Floral Co Dallas 

Bruce, A. L. /. Clarendon 

CaldT^'ell, W. H Corpus Christi 

Campbell, L. I Dallas 

Carr, T. F Bay City 

Cluck, J. W., & Son "Dallas 

Clyde Nursery Co Clyde 

Cole, Eobert F Dallas 

Comal Springs Nurserv' New Braunfels 

Cooke County Nursery Gainesville 

Cowell, L Fort Worth 

Cmtchfield. Wm Vernon 

Daingerfield Nursery Daingertield 

Dallas Shade and Fruit Tree Co "Dallas 

Delling, Otto •. Dallas 

Denny. J. W Smithfield 

Draper, A. N McAllen 

DiTimm Seed & Floral Co Fort Worth 

Dubbs, C. W Clarendon 

Eagle Lake Nursery Eagle Lake 

Ecles, J. D ■ ; Vidor 

Edgewood Nursery . . . . ; Dickinson 

El Canipo Nurser}^ El Campo 

Erath County Nurserv^ Dublin 

Euless Nurseries Arlington 

Evergreen Cemetery ' El Paso> 

Evergreen Nursery Hawkins 

Excelsior Nurser}- Palacios 

Figge, 0. C Beaumont 

Fitzgerald, J. E Stephenville 

Ford, Sam P Tyler 

Forest Nursery Fort Worth 

Foster Nurseries Denton 

Prankston Nursery Frankston 

Goldthwaite Nursery Goldthwaite 

Griffing Nurseries Port Arthur 

Griffing's Delta Nursery San Benito 

Hannah, H. 0., & Son Sherman 

Harris, A. J., & Son Grand Saline 

Hart's McAllen Nursery McAllen 

Henderson Nursery Athens 

Hendi-ix & Glass Farmersville 

Hereford Nurser\' Co Hereford 

Herrle, J. J. A Houston 

Hicks & Cuh-er Mt. Pleasant 



—36— 

Name of Firm. Postoffice. 

Hillsboro NiTrsery Co _ Hillsboro 

Hoffman, R. H Denton 

Holbert, Cha?;. E Arcadia 

Holbert, Mrs. E. W Arcadia 

Howard's Montopolis Nursery Austin 

Iron Ore Nursery Denisqn 

Johnson Orchard & Nursery Co Dallas 

Johnson. Bart Comanche 

Kaufman Countv Nursery Terrell 

Kearney, S. W San Antonio 

Kerr, jno. S Sherman 

Kezer, H. A El Paso 

Kieswetter, A. H Houston 

Kirby, S. B Bullard 

Kirtly, C. C Cameron 

Lampasas Nursery Co Lampasas 

Lang Eloral & Nursery Co , Dallas 

Laredo Nurser}' Co Laredo 

Lev/is, S. Lufkin 

Lloyd, L. J Nursery 

MacDaniel, W. F San Augustine 

McGinney Nursery Co Tyler 

McKee Nurseries Mt. Selman 

MeKee," The J. E., Nursery Co Texarkana 

McKee, S. R., Nurseries Jacksonville 

McKinney Nursery Co Dallas 

Martin, W. M Handley 

Mary Austin Nurser}' Alta Loma 

Misrnon. E Navasota 

Moore Nursery Co Tyler 

Moss Bros Hico 

Mosty, L. A., & Son Center Point 

Munson Nurseries Denison 

Myrtle Springs Nursery Co Wills Point 

Northeast Texas Nursery Pittsburg 

Oak Grove Nursery .Denison 

Palacios Nurserv Co Palacios 

Pearfield Nursery New Ulm 

Pilot Point Dewberry Farm Pilot Point 

Pine Springs Nursery Tyler 

Plainview Nursen^ Co Plainview 

Planters Nursery " Denton 

Pomeroy. Eltweed Donna 

Potter Floral Co El Paso 

Riverside Nursery- Fort, Worth 

Rockdale Nursery Rockdale 

Rosedale Nursery Brenham 

Rosedale Nurseries El Paso 

Rose Hill Nursery Co Texarkana 

Rusk County Nursery Henderson 

Saibara. K \ Webster 



—37— 

Name of Firm. PostoflBce. 

Saltillo Nursery Co Saltillo 

Samford, A. M Tyler 

San Angelo Nursery Co San Angelo 

San Benito Nursery Co San Benito 

Siuton Nurseries Sinton 

Shamburger Nursery Tyler 

Shary, John H Mission 

Shell, C. L Georgetown 

Smith County Nursery Co Tyler 

Stephenson, H. F Brownsville 

Steinbriug, S. W ' New Braunf els 

Stockwell Nursery Alvin 

Stone, Mrs. E. E Dickinson 

Sulphur Springs Nursery Sulphur Springs 

Teas Nursery Co Houston 

Terrell Nursery Co Terrell 

Texas Nursery Co Sherman 

Texas Eose Garden Eockdale 

Thomas, J. E Atlanta 

Thompson, J. M WacO' 

Verhalen, Geo. F Scottsville 

Volz, Chas Mission 

Waco-Tyler Nursery Co Waco 

Waxabachie Nursery Co Waxahachie 

Wahrli, Robert . . .' Dallas 

Western Home Nursery Weatherford 

-West Tyler Nursery. /. Tyler 

Whall, Walter ^. San Antonio 

Wichita Floral & Nursery Co Wichita Falls 

Wright Nursery & Floral Co El Paso 

Wright, A. P. '. Mission 




Russian mulberry in West Texas and the Panhandle makes a fast growth and is very hardy 

as well. The silvery foliage makes this a very desirable ornamental 

shade tree. This tree is in AmariUo, Texas. 




Young green ash in the foreground and Carolina poplars behind in the forest tree nursery at 

the Denton Experiment Station. Some scores of new trees are being tried out 

each year at these stations to determine those suited 

to Texas conditions. 



LIST OF BULLETINS ISSUED BY THE STATE FORESTER 



Copies may be secured free of charge from the State Forester, Col- 
lege Station, Texas. 

Bulletin 1. Grass and Woodland Trees. (Supply exhausted.) 

Bulletin 2. Tree Planting Needed in Texas. 

Bulletin 3. General Survey of Texas Woodlands, Including a Study 
of the Commercial Possibilities of Mesquite. 

Bulletin 4. First Annual Eeport of the State Forester. (Supply ex- 
hausted.) 

Bulletin 5. Forest Eesources of Eastern Texas. 

Bulletin 6. Forest Fire Prevention in Co-operation with the Federal 
Government. (Supply exhausted, replaced by bulletin 
No. 9.) 

Bulletin 7. Farm Forestry. (Extension bulletin.) 

Bulletin 8. Second Annual Report of the State Forester. 

Bulletin 9. Forest Fire Prevention in East Texas. 

Bulletin 10. Farm Forestry in the Shortleaf Pine Section of East 
Texas. 

Bulletin 11. Shade Trees in Texas Towns and Cities. 

Bulletin 12. Forestry Questions and Answers. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



000 926 006 7 



1. TREES INCREASE THE VALUE OF 
YOUR PROPERTY. 

2. TREES. PROTECT YOUR HOME AND 
YOUR STREETS FROM THE HEAT OF 

THE SUN. 

3. TREES PROTECT YOU FROM THE 
COLD WINDS OF WINTER. 

4. TREES GIVE OFF OXYGEN, THUS PURI- 
EYING THE AIR. 

5. TREES AFFORD AN ATTRACTIVE SET- 
TING FOR YOUR HOME. 

6. TREES MAKE YOUR CITY MORE LIVE- 
ABLE AND LOVEABLE. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

iHi- 

000 926 006 7 



